by Colleen Besman

Jacobo Mendoza explains "the first step is birth, the second is youth, the third is wisdom, when coming of age. The final step, which turns down, is death or perhaps heaven and then the cycle begins again." He is pointing to the grecas, spiraling geometric designs. He explains that they also adorn the pre-Hispanic Zapotec stronghold, Mitla ruins.

Intent on interpreting Jacobo Mendoza's rug patterns, I see both modern and ancient designs ablaze in amazing tones of red and orange, or softly represented in greens and gold, indigo and yellow. Wavy patterns of water? "No," he tells me, "those are mountains." Navajo zig zags? "No, that is lightning."

Intricate patterns painted before the arrival of the Spaniards and depicted in the Borgia Codex endure in Jacobo's weaving today. Nature, eyes of the gods, the cross of Quetzalcoatl, lightning, rain, the mountains that frame the view from his front door, and are known as the place of the gods, intrigue me as I ask him, one by one, what this pattern means, then the next. Jacobo has been weaving Zapotec magic since he was a child of eight. He weaves them without a pattern, inventing new scenarios with the patterns that run in his blood.

The path from wool to rug is a long one with many steps. Early Zapotecs wove with cotton and ixtle, the fiber of the maguey plant, and are rumored to have paid their tribute to the Aztecs with their fine textiles. Sheep and the treadle loom were introduced by the Spanish in 1535. The Zapotecs have not looked back, producing serapes, clothing and mostly rugs, ever since. Teotitlán del Valle in the state of Oaxaca, famous for its rug weaving families and its Zapotec traditions, is home for this famous Mendoza family.

To produce his rugs and fine wall hangings, Jacobo and his family first prepare the handspun wool from its rough state into threads. Maria Luisa, his wife, is an expert spinner. Their daughter and son, Sylvia and Jacobito participate in all aspects of the production. Jacobo uses many kinds of wool: cashmere, alpaca, the rough local handspun sheep wool, as well as silk and gold and silver threads. His rugs run the gamut from all-natural colored wool to super ¨fino¨ (extra fine) pure silk masterpieces.

Once prepared as yarn, the threads must then be dyed. Although aniline (synthetic) dyes were introduced in the early 20th century and are commonly used in Mexico, the Mendozas are dedicated to using only natural dyes. Because of his special expertise Jacobo is featured in French Dye Master Michel Garcia's film on the slow dying technique, teasing a lovely bright yellow from the lengua de vaca weed that grows in his garden. Other natural dye stuffs include cochineal (an insect), indigo, zapote, musgo de roca (moss), rosewood, different barks and various weeds that grow locally whose names I cannot spell nor pronounce.

Jacobo clearly lives in two worlds: traditional Zapotec and the mix that is modern Mexico. He has traveled to the United States where his rugs have been featured at the New Hampshire Art Institute and the San Jose Art Museum, as well as numerous galleries. His pieces can be found at the Peter Gray Museum in Puerto Vallarta and Museo de Textiles in Oaxaca. His friends hail from the US, Japan, France, and Germany. His daughter attended university studying to become an economist. And yet, he remains deeply traditional. He prefers to speak in Zapotec, honoring traditions within his family. He is hardworking to a fault. As a friend I find him honest, loyal and kind with a strong sense of personal identity as a Zapotec.

Like his father, Jacobito revels in using super fine yarns. Silk, which requires special care in the dye process, cashmere, merino and alpaca wool are all part of the Mendoza repertoire. Using yarn at 24 threads to the inch, and his family's brilliant color palette, it is no wonder that Jacobito has won so many awards. Top awards include the inclusion of Jacobito in the Foundation Citibanamex book Grandes Maestros del Arte Popular Mexicano ~ 20 Años and the purchase of his work for the Foundation's Palacio Iturbide Museum. He was awarded the 2020 nomination for the Brandford Elliott award at the Textile Society of America (only 3 young people who use the finest fibers in textiles are nominated). He won the 2022 third place prize at the Popular Art Contest organized by Friends of Oaxaca Folk Art (FOFA).

Knowing and working with Jacobo, Jacobito and their family gives me hope that traditions and cultures such as theirs will be able to survive and thrive in the years ahead.

Jacobo and Jacobito Mendoza will be here in San Miguel for an exhibition and sale October 17 to November 8.

This is a special opportunity for you to meet these two remarkable Oaxacan master weavers, to be able to learn about their weaving and to be able to purchase one of their beautiful works of art.

There will also be presentations/classes on natural dyes and how they are created and used, plus a small weaving gift at the Mask Museum upstairs annex on the following days and times for a $200 USD fee / person:

October 19, 20, 23, 25, 27, November 3 from 12-2pm
and on October 31 from 2-4pm

If you wish to make a reservation to attend one of these sessions or for a private appointment please contact Jacobo or Jacobito at:

jacobomendoza298@gmail.com, cell +52 951 400 6081

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