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San Miguel de Allende:
the soul of mexico

People, part 1

From the book

December 17, 2023

by Cathi and Steven House

 
Here in San Miguel we have our lovely home in the historic center of one of the most extraordinary towns we have ever known. But much more than physical house, our home here includes a community of precious people, who have become integral to our lives.

Mexico is fascinating, historically and architecturally spectacular. But the people whom we count as friends, neighbors, and coworkers make life much more than we bargained for. Experiencing the fervor and passion they have for life, faith, love, and family, celebrating birthdays, weddings, quinceañeras and funerals with them, seeing life and the world through their eyes has transformed us in more ways than we can count.

Simple walks are filled with wonder, and the pleasures of seeing in new light, new details. Days feel longer, filled with the joys of life. Church bells and processions, the calls of the trash truck, the scissor sharpener, the elote seller, simple things that disappear without notice in the US become joyous in a life that feels more significant, more gracious, more enjoyable, more wondrous... in Mexico.
 

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Mexican people by nature are kind, loving, helpful, considerate... and these qualities can be seen and felt in every corner of this beautiful country. In San Miguel de Allende the mix of cultures has created a multi-layered population, a dynamic society that blends the old world with the new, traditional with modern ideas, Mexican with a broad spectrum of the world.

It was about 9:30pm and the Jardin was full of people; the lights on the church and surrounding buildings were very impressive. Children were playing, lovers were kissing, the little old man all bent in half who walks with two canes and inches along was out and walking and dressed in his best suit. The balloon sellers, children dressed like dolls, musicians playing at every corner, all surrounded us as we sat on a bench among the flowers with Margarita, whose family has sold popcorn in the Jardin for generations, and with her husband Zarco, a very dear, old friend. We talked of life and poetry and history and philosophy and Zarco's love of the music of Edith Piaff. We walked home through streets that were dark and quiet except for music and laughter spilling from the cantina on the corner. And when we came into our precious little home and looked up, we realized that we could see more than just the Milky Way - we could see heaven. We were home.

The great hall was overflowing for the wedding party with stunningly clad, very attractive people...and they are beautiful people. Their richly colored skin glows with life, their dark hair shines, their eyes sparkle. Women in San Miguel know how to use makeup to its best effect - eyes that are exotic, mysterious, cheeks with just the right amount of glow, a light dusting of glistening powder on bare, shapely shoulders, full lips in bold, shimmery shades. And their hair - they part it in strips and zigzags, lines and grids, and they swirl and curl it into countless manners of gathering; it is mesmerizing and beautiful. And their dresses - so sensual, flowing, artistic, their shoes beyond imagining being able to walk in… yet they move exquisitely, even on the old cobbled stone streets. The men are handsome in the real meaning of that word. They are strong and charming, with a twinkle in their eyes that enchants instantly.

Children play futbol in whatever space is available - laughing and playing; teenagers sitting on the sidelines cheering the younger children on; moms sit just inside their open doors visiting with each other and keeping an ear on what's going on. Every one of them - from the babies to grannies wishing good evening to every passerby.

Part 2

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San Miguel de Allende: the soul of mexico is available from your favorite bookstores including Aurora Books and La Biblioteca Tesoros in San Miguel, or from many of your favorite internet sites including Schiffer, Amazon, Barnes & Nobel and Thrift Books. If you would like an autographed copy of our new book, please send us an email request and you can buy it directly from us at steven@houseandhouse.com.

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Cathi and Steven House, the founders and principals of House + House Architects, have received over 50 design awards for their work in California, Mexico, Africa and the Caribbean, and have been featured in prestigious publications throughout the world including two monographs, House + House Architects: Choreographing Space and Houses in the Sun: light movement embrace. Their studies of vernacular architecture have been published in Mediterranean Villages: an architectural journey, and in Villages of West Africa: an intimate journey across time, which document the people, villages and unique architecture. Cathi and Steven lecture extensively and created CASA, The Center for Architecture, Sustainability + Art, a study abroad program based in Mexico.

House + House Architects' work reflects Cathi and Steven's passion for soulfully designed buildings intimately responsive to their site and to their inhabitants.

www.houseandhouse.com

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